El Flare - Abdet - Topo - Updated August 2008

produced by www.abdet.com

El Flare Buttresses - A great selection of routes in a beautiful setting that would provide several days entertainment for most mid grade climbers. Some great wall climbing as well as some steep routes on sector Olbidada and High Buttress. The unusual "rib" on the Gossos buttress provides a couple of unique routes. And the stalagtites in Piedra Liquido are not to be missed. There are several trad routes here that are well worth doing, so be sure to bring a selection of nuts and cams. The new Jabali sector offers super easier grade routes.

Also look out for the wild boar footprints down the track. You may well see a few of these wondering down the track at dusk if you are lucky!

Photo: Bruce Jardine on the first ascent of Piedra Liquida

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Access - Drive beyond Guadalest (towards Alcoy) on the CV70, take the sign for L'abdet a few km's before reaching Confrides. You can also access from the Alcoy side or from Sella (40 minutes). After turning off the main road follow the twisting road down to Abdet and you will pass a minor track on the left just after the bridge (park in one of several areas on the right of the road just beyond, or in the village itself). Walk back to the track and follow it past a hairpin. Jabali sectors are up through the woods here, whilst the main wall is further long this track taking the right fork just past a house. There appears to be no access problems, but please respect the area and leave it tidy. El Arco sector is accessed from main road.

Aspect - South West, Jabali sectors face East and South, El Arco sector faces East, and climbing is possible all year round. They lie at an altitude of 720 Metres.

Facilities - Check out the local bars in Abdet and Confrides, self catering accommodation is available in Abdet - see www.abdet.com

Gossos and Spanish Daze Buttresses

These buttresses lie along the track past the main face- follow it along until a hairpin bend back right, take this turn and follow the track to another hairpin beneath Orange Wall (Pared Naranja). Follow faint track up to Orange Wall and take a route up the left side of Orange wall to reach thge foot of Gossos Buttress.You will see the amazing "rib" of Gossos Pillar.

Spanish Daze Buttress

(1) Spanish Haze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  S 4a
20m. Climb steeply up the right slanting crack behind the obvious bush. Keep trending in the same direction into the obvious pocketed scoop at the top. Good nut and cam protection.
FA 18/3/2005   Bruce Jardine, Joshua Jardine, Connor Jardine
 
(2) Spanish Daze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
VD 3a
20m. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and climb large blocks to gain the slabs, climb direct to the top.
FA 29/12/2004 - Tom Phillips/Matthew Phillips/Dick Gerrish
 

100 Metres further right is
(3) Posterior del Perro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
VS 4c
20m. Climbs past the open "caves" on the left of the rib. Bridge up the two caves and move right to finish up grooves.
FA 13/3/2005 - Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine
 
(4) Costillo del Perro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .
  E1 5b
20m. Climbs directly up the outside of the "rib". Start from a position between the crag and the "rib" and make moves past a bolt runner to a position on the very edge of the rib. Climb directly up the rib and then up the fine upper slab.
FA 29/12/2004 - Tom Phillips/Dick Gerrish
 
(5) Gossos Pillar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
VS 4b
20m. A unique and exciting route - bridge up between the pillar and crag (bold) until moves can be made rightwards to gain the layback crack in a very exposed position. Climb the slabs direct to the top.
FA 1/11/04 - Tom Phillips/Dan Drew
 
(6) Dan's Dilemma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
HS 4a
15m. Start from broken ledge on the right side of the Buttress, love up and left onto the arête in a fine position, climb direct to the top - tape and sling belays
FA 1/11/04 - Tom Phillips/Dan Drew

Orange Wall - Pared Naranja

This wall is easily reached as described for Gossos and Spanish Daze. Look for the unusual kissing Tortoises formation on the right!

(1) El Gecko con Pied Blanco y Negro . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  5
15m. The left hand line up the orange wall is much better than appearances woudl suggest. It has been well cleaned
FA 20/2/2008   Tom and Matthew Phillips
(2) La Tortuga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
20m. A tricky move onto the rib and a steeper finish to lower off
FA 20/2/2008   Tom and Matthew Phillips

Placa Principal - Main Wall

This section is easily reached by following the track past the house and taking the right fork.

(1) Uno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
 5
7m. The first line to lower off
First Ascent Tom Phillips, Matthew Phillips, Bruce Jardine, Joshua Jardine, Connor Jardine. Easter 2007
 
(2) Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
 
8m.
 
(3) Flared . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
 6a+
20m. Bring out your big cams for this one! The crack starts steep and gnarly, and gets steeper and more gnarly - excellent. There is a good chockstone to thread. Belay well back using nuts and tapes.
First Ascent Tom Phillips and Dan Drew 29/10/04
 
(4) Si Lo Hago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   
  6c+
30m. First line right of the big crack. A steep start with a hard move to big holds, then a further hard sequence leads to big holds and an easier finish.
First Ascent Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish 06/08/2008
 
(5) Can yon do it like this? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
 7a

20m. A steep route with long reaches!
First Ascent Mark Edwards 31/10/2007

 
(6) Viva Abdet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a+
30m. A great line with continual interest and a steep finish. Move up and left passing a small ledge to gain the flake. Continue straight up passing a bulge near the top on superb pockets. Avoid the use of the dubious flakes on the right of the route. The route is 6a WITHOUT the use of these.
First Ascent Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine 10/03/05
 
Sector Luiquida - Routes 3, 4 and 5 (Sector Liquida) start in a bay to the left of Via Almendra. Take care accessing this bay. There is a belay ring at the bottom of route 5.
 
(7) Piedra Líquida . . . .
  6a+
25m. Magnificent climbing up the amazing flowstone and stalactites just right of the corner. A steep starting move over the initial roof leads to an easier section. Steep moves up the first section of stalactites leads to a difficult clip (avoid moving into the boulder filled corner!). Now move back right past the final bolt in order to clip the lower off. Finishing direct is harder, probably 6b+
First Ascent Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips 12/03/05
 
(8) Desviado . . . . . .
  6b+
25m. Climb past the small tree and up the groove of calcited blocks and flowstone (thread and tape runners). Finally move left to find a couple of good holds that allow access to the overhanging finger crack, steep and fierce! the crux is getting stood on the ledge above the finger crack.
FA Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine 12/03/05
 
 
(9) Gema Ocultado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
    5+
30m. A cunning line starting at the lowest part of the rib. Climb up until it is possible to bridge up the gully for a few moves (use of the tree is allowed!). Then a hold on the left wall allows moves to be made up to the arête. Continue up to a tricky last move to the lower off point.
FA  Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine 12/03/05
 
(10) Cresta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
    6b+
12m. The short arete with a difficult finishing sequence
FA   Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish 02/08/2008
 
(11) Extraplomo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
     6c+
20m. Start from the base of La Atracción and climb the flake up to the left. Then climb the steep wall, making use of the pocket on the arete would be 6c+. Without the pocket would be harder (7a?)
FA   Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish   02/08/2008
 
(12) La Atracción . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
    6a+
30m. The steep crack left of Via Almendra. In a great position. start from the ledge/ramp above the cave.
FA   Mark Edwards, Rowland Edwards, Tom Phillips   20/02/2008
 
(13) Via Almendra    . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a+
35m A stunning line up the imposing pillar that leans out over the track. Start to the right of the pillar and an traverse across until a few steep moves allow access to the crack that runs to the top of the pillar. It is just possible to abseil to the starting ledge with a 60 Metre rope. Rock is much better than appearances suggest!
FA Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine 10/03/05
 
(14) Cerdo    . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a
22m The orange crack line is much steeper than it looks, and is great once the slightly loose start is passed. Lower from twin ring bolts at bottom of impending groove.
FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sharron Gerrish 29/07/08
 
(15) Jengibre    . . . . . . . . . . .
  5+
22m The right hand line on this butress has a tricky finishing move, finish at same lower off as Cerdo.
FA Dick Gerrish, Sharron Gerrish 02/08/08
 
(16) Marques de Monistrol . . . . .
  6a+
 4+
35m Start in the gully, bridge up until better holds allow you to swing out onto the main face. Huge pockets and jugs lead to thinner moves on the face above. Move up then right to gain a large ledge and belay rings. The top pitch is easy but still worthwhile. Can just be done in one pitch
FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, Sharon Gerrish 14/8/2005
 
(17) Círculo Blanco
. . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a+
30m. Direct through the bulge at the left side of the main face, again has a little sting in the tail
FA Tom Phillips and Steve Rogers 21/4/05
 
(18) Sin Cava
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a+
30m. Takes a direct line up the steep main face. Very sustained and with a little sting in the tail
FA Tom Phillips and Steve Rogers 21/4/05
 
(19) La Estrella
. . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .
  6b+
20m. Steep lower wall to a steeper finish.
FA Steep lower wall to a steeper finish 27/07/08
 
(20) Via Jardin
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a
40m. Weaves it's way up the big wall with tricky starting moves. Finishes by moving right onto the top of the pillar. As this route is is about 40 metres long you may want to split it at the half way point (belay rings in place).
FA Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine 10/03/05
 
(21) San Miguel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6b
30m. This superb route take the sustained steep pillar begining the tree. Take care at the start to avoid the loose gully on the right. From the top of the pedestal launch up the face, 30 metres of 6a moves to the lower off! A quality Spanish product.
FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, Sharon Gerrish /8/2005
 
(22) Mahou
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a
5m. A short technical route - Belay at the ring bolt at the top of the steep slope (care) beneath routes 3 and 4.
FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, 12/8/2005
 
(23) Fink Brau
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  5
6m. Climb the obvious groove direct - Belay at the ring bolt at the top of the steep slope (care) beneath routes 3 and 4.
FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, Sharon Gerrish 14/8/2005
 
(24) Sin Alcohol
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  HVS
20m. From the ring bolt climb up and left to the arête (two bolt runners). Then climb direct taking to obvious crack through the small overhang.
FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, 12/8/2005
 
(25) Buckler
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  HVS
20m. From the ring bolt climb the groove to a ledge - move right two opposing flakes before trending left to the belay.
FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, Sharon Gerrish 14/8/2005

El Flare Buttress

This buttress gives some excellent routes, all have twin bolt lower offs. Routes are around 25 Metres long. Routes 6 and 7 require nuts and cams


(1) Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
 +
22m.

(2) Knock on Wood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6c
22m. An easy start leads to thin moves to gain the edge of the large sloping ledge, which is tricky to get onto. Then steep moves up the top section on good but widely spaced holds lead to an easier finish.
FA 30/12/05 Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish
(3) New Years Revolutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6b+
25m. Climb past the large flakes and tackle some hard moves through the overlaps - the crux is moving up and left to pass the first overlap. Move back right to reach easier ground - lower off from top.
FA 1/1/05 Dick Gerrish and Tom Phillips

4) Second of the First . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a+
25m. Climb to the flakes and make a bold step right to reach a sequence of good holds on the steep wall - lower off from top.
FA 1/1/05 Dick Gerrish and Tom Phillips

(5) El Placa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a
25m Straight up the steep wall, stepping right onto the top arête in a great position - lower off from top.
FA 28/10/2004 Tom Phillips and Dan Drew

(6) Flare Corner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
E1 5b
25m. Thin moves up and right allow entry to the corner - The E1 grade allows you to clip the first bolt on route 3 - great climbing up the corner, step right under the roof to gain the upper wall - lower off from top
FA 28/10/2004 Tom Phillips and Dan Drew

(7) The Trundle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
HS 4b
20m. Climb the right rib and ledges to lower off. Named after the mega trundle whilst cleaning the route - see movie clips
FA 28/10/2004 Tom Phillips and Dan Drew

Placa Olbidada

This hidden wall provides short but steep routes on superb rock. It is approached by walking underneath El Flare Buttress and scrambling up the gully underneath the wall. Ideal on hot days as it stays in shade until late in the day. Routes are described from the bottom of the gulley upwards

(1) Snakes Alive !
  7a
12m. Steep, with the crux between clips 1 and 3. The crags first 7a
FA Julian Maund 02/01/07

(2) Vieja Cabeza Grande
  6b+
15m. A thin start and a tricky finish
FA Michael Brohan, Jarek Svoboda 28/11/2006

(3) Via Central . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a+
15m. Bridge up using the boulder to clip the first bolt - sustained.
FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 26/08/05

(4) Czech This Out
  6b
16m. Direct up to the crack high on the head wall
FA Jarek Svoboda, Michael Brohan 28/11/2006

(5) Last of the Last . . . . . . . . . .
  6b+
13m. A hard start to gain the small ledge, then climb the sequence of tufa holds before a steep finish. FA Tom Phillips, Alistair Shawcross 31/12/05

(6) Via Izquierda . . . . . . . . . . . .
  5+
12m. Step off the small boulder and climb the left arete, use of the jamed boulders in the gully lowers the grade.
FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 26/08/05

La Bahia

This section provides a variety of short routes on some excellent sharp rock, as well as an easy traditional route up the classic ramp line of "The Bat" (El Murciélago). The best approach is by traversing through the woods from Jabali sector (passing Dias Halcon Butress)

(1) Clear Air Stirs
. . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a
A Short route on perfect rock just left of centre.
FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 01/Sep/2006
 
(2) Virgin on the impossible
. . . . .
  6a+
The right line on this short butress is a sequence of powerful moves to easier ground
FA Tom Phillips, John Le Seve 24/Aug/2006
 
(3) Real Art Crisis
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6c
Traverse out on a thin sequence of holds to a great position above the overhangs. Finish direct to lower off
FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 01/Sep/2006
 
(4) Project
 
(5) Scarier Trials
. . . . . . . . . .
  6b+
Sustained climbing directly up the centre of the face.
FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 01/Sep/2005
 
(6) Paraiso
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6a+
The right hand line on this butress. Climb the first section using holds on the arete, before moving left and tackling the delightful high corner
FA Tom Phillips, John Le Seve 24/Aug/2006
 
(7) Enganoso
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  6b
A lone route up the middle of the steep butress at the right of the arch sector. climb the large boulder to a thread then direct up the steep wall to an easier finish. Shares the lower of with el murciélago.
FA Tom Phillips, John Le Seve 22/Aug/2006
 
(8) El Murciélago
. . . . . . . . . .
  VD 4a
Takes the obvious hanging slab and climbs over a small bulge at the top to bolt lower off
FA Tom Phillips, Sam Mulhall, Neil Mulhall, Matthew Phillips 15/Aug/2006

 

JABALI SECTORS

These sectors lie close to the road leading into Abdet. Due to the fact that the climbing is on pillars you can get shade or sun until around midday, and then they come into shade again in the evening. They offer good climbing at an easy standard. The left sectors are bolted whilst the right sectorshave some easy trad. Walk up the El flare track until you reach the wood. Then follow a track up as marked on the topo to reach the buttresses. All routes have lower off points. Dias Halcòn Butress lies 50 metres to the left of the upper pillar.

DIAS HALCÒN BUTRESS

This small butress lies about 50 metres to the left of the two main pillars of Jabali sector. Although very short the routes are on immaculate rock and are very worthwhile.

(1) El Cernícalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
    6a
6m. The very left hand route.
FA 3/06/06 - Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips
 
(2) Dias Halcòn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
     6a
7m. The next route has a tricky start, climb up then back right (shares lower off with 3)
FA 3/06/06 - Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips
 
(3) La Aguila . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
      5
12m. Start at the lowest point of the butress and climb the left side of the arete
FA 3/06/06 - Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips
 
(4) Gavilán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
      5+

11m. The steep fornt face just right of the arete